For All the Tea in China

What a freaking great day I have had!  Despite my misadventures from last night, I decided I would not let that ruin my impressions of this lovely city.

After all, according to Scarlet, "Tomorrow is anutha day..."

After lunch, I ventured forth to Shopping Park, a quick 5 minute train ride from the hotel that my Hong Kong compatriot had recommended.

I am and have been a big fan of jasmine tea, green tea, oolong tea, and now, Pu-erh or Pu'er teas.

Pu'er tea is a variety of post-fermented tea, specifically Dark Tea, produced in the Yunnan province of China.  Post-fermentation is a tea production style in which the tea leaves undergo a  microbial fermentation process after they are dried and rolled.  This is a Chinese specialty and is sometimes referred to as dark, or black tea.  This is completely different than the black tea we Westerners are familiar with and the Chinese refer to as "red" tea.  There are a few different provinces, each with a few regions, producing dark teas of different varieties.  These produced in Yunnan are very often referred to as Pu'er tea, which refers to the Pu'er county which used to be a trading post for dark tea during imperial China.

I have tried this type of tea before, but what I've never experienced until today was how cool a ceremonial tea service is!  I didn't require any ceremony per se, but it doesn't refer to any fanfare, but rather the process of serving tea.  My father in law can appreciate this better than most.  He abhors the very idea of Starbucks, not because of the coffee itself, but because of the culture it promotes. It used to make me giggle, how offended he gets over this, but what he is really trying to communicate is that coffee should be slow, enjoyed and savored, not served in a paper cup or drank in haste, on the run.  What waste, what haste...

After my "ceremony" today, I couldn't agree more.  Tea, should be appreciated in much the same manner as he enjoys coffee, slowly and with care and appreciation for the beverage and of course, good company. It is a wind down... not a wind up.

My tea ceremony, much to my amazement, lasted nearly 3 hours!  When was the last time you enjoyed anything over the course of 3 hours?  Not only did my lovely friend take the time to teach me about tea, but she rather enjoyed it, introducing me to what jasmine tea can really be when you take time.  Forget about rushing... The whole point is that tea, in China, develops its flavor over time and it has nuances which change its character as you go along.  Needless to say, I was intrigued, utterly fascinated and so appreciative that anyone would spend that much time sharing something, anything with me.  It will be as cemented in my memory as last night. Actually, far more so.  Now that, is an experience, right?

The presentation of the tea, teapots, tea cups is important.  It isn't just pretty or for show. It has real purpose and everything on that table was set just for me.  There were only 2 tables in this shop but no one rushes. No one hurries. No one pushes you to buy and move on. They want you to stay. They are eager to share and teach, especially engaging me, not because I had money to spend. They didn't know whether I would or wouldn't but that didn't change the interaction. In fact, I am certain that the majority of the people who stay to enjoy the ceremony do actually purchase, but the truth is I had no intentions when I went in, I was just curious and wanted to pick up some jasmine tea.

The ceremony starts with a tea selection and the water is heated, then she fills a very small pot with hot water and pours this into another very small pot that has a strainer and some of the loose tea. Depending on the type of tea, she chooses a different pot. The first cup poured, she dumps out.  The second cup she pours, she offers to me. The cups are no bigger than a shot glass really, but the idea is that you sip tea and the small pot ensures you don't make too much to be enjoyed fully.  The small cup ensures that you don't pour too much so it cools too quickly before you are done drinking it.  It is an art.

Jasmine tea, good jasmine tea, is rolled in a "gunpowder" style, or a tight little ball. The first pot she uses is clear glass so she can watch the tea unfurl and the color develop. We pour round after round of jasmine tea and the process goes from a light perfumed cup, light in body and flavor, to a darker, stronger cup as the tea unfurls and the procession continues.  What an eye opener!  It is delicate and beautiful, voluptuous in body and delicacy.

After we get about half way through the jasmine tea, she begins the procession for the Pu'er tea she has been teaching me about.  What a difference.  The complexity that develops over the course of the ceremony is so unique and she tells me in broken English that this is the tea you drink before bed as it is good for the stomach and good for "sleepy", she says smiling.  Sleepy. Ah, now that is what I'm talking about!  My husband and I are always on the hunt for a good bedtime tea.  I am thrilled. She eyes me knowingly and asks me, "How do you feel?"  I don't want to make up something so I just say, "Good!" And it's true. I feel great. But I'm having a good time of course.  However, over the course of our tea celebration, I realize that not only do I feel good, but I feel so relaxed!  I mean, super duper relaxed.  Chamomile tea is a very relaxing tea, but I have never experienced a relaxing effect quite like this.  It is decided. It is coming home as a gift to my husband for his birthday.

The store keeper comes over to check on us, suggesting other teas, but I am quite happy with what we have and have never enjoyed so much tea in one sitting. He brings a tray of treats, goodies that are traditional and I have another "whoa!" moment...  They both encourage me to try these little packages and to be congenial, I do.  The first was a caramel flavored with green tea. Good but not something I would go out of my way for as it seems too much like candy.  I think the general idea is that the sweets cleanse the palate between teas.

The next treat they put in front of me, she explains, is "flowers".  I am intrigued, so I try... I'm in heaven!  I can't believe what I've just had, otherworldly.  Never have I had anything like it and instantly, I shove the wrapper in my purse.  She points to a shelf. "Flowers," she says smiling, knowing that I am hooked.  In the bag sitting next to me it goes.  I don't know what it is exactly, but I think it is hibiscus flowers that are flavored with Jin Xuan tea.  The box says "Roselle flowers".  A quick lookup on Wikipedia confirms my suspicion. It is indeed hibiscus flowers!  Amazing.

The next treat is very similar but distinct.  Tomatoes flavored with Jin Xuan tea.  Holy cow, I'm in trouble. These are every bit as awesome as the hibiscus treats. I snatch up a box of these as well.  The look on my face tells the story. I am enjoying myself more than I can say.  She is genuinely pleased and continues to serve the tea until our long and lovely service is complete. I know there is one thing left to do: select a tea service so that I can share this with my husband and enjoy this ritual when we need to slow down a little.  Take a breather, smell the roselles... :)  No longer will we have a quick tea.  From now, on, we will live and enjoy tea the Chinese way... on a slow boat.  A very slow boat to China.