As we landed in Tahiti, we didn't really have an agenda, but having researched the crap out it for a few weeks before our arrival, I think we both had a fair idea that we wanted to see things, explore.
My partner in these wild adventures is not exactly one to sit around. Having said that, he knows how to relax with the best of them. But being fond of adventure and a notorious planner, I knew that he'd have a pretty good idea of where we would go and what we'd do on a daily basis. Not that I didn't, but I just knew he would. And he did.
Within 24 hours, he had already figured out that we could not do without a car. Skipping down to the concierge before I had gotten up or had my first yawn, he'd already determined the course of action for the day, secured a mini rental car and ordered breakfast.
Being a lover of astrology myself, and ironically, being my own ruling planet, I was captivated. Having discovered it during one of our daily jaunts around the island on one of the many round-abouts, we decided to take a quick turn and go check it out. For one, it was very close to the hotel we were staying at and for another, a local food truck caught our attention that setup shop almost every night on one of the corners.
After all, we had really only come across it because we had stopped at the local grocery store on the opposite corner of the roundabout to get our daily bread. And by that, I mean baguette.
You see, it's French Polynesia. And as Tahitian as it is, it is also very French. Deciding that the hotel buffet and restaurant, while catering in the most sincere way to Westerners, was in fact not really up to our kind of eats, we ventured out. And in doing so, we discovered the best of the best of what this awesome mashup of island life could really be.
French wine. Bordeaux in fact, of some superior vintages, getting rather dusty on the shelves of the local grocery stores had me riveted for well over 20 minutes. Tahitians prefer the local beer, Hinano. And oh my gosh, rightly so. But I love Bordeaux... and so we had the best of all possible worlds. Charging $15 for the same beer at the hotel, we got a case of 16 oz bottles for the same price. Fresh French baguettes, foie gras, port salut cheese, whole yogurt, bananas and coconut picked up at a stall on the side of the street, kiwi, French butter and Cognac. Cracker, puh-lease!! It was extraordinary. And as we ate breakfast this way every morning on the balcony overlooking the black sanded shores of the South Pacific, watching the whales with their babies coming in close to shore to feed, it was more than breathtaking. it was downright serene; pure luxury.
And off we would go... discovering one hidden jewel after another on our
ritualistic winding-road drives around the island. We'd stop and explore gorgeous botanical gardens, water gardens, hidden beaches, waterfalls and little cafes.
Speaking more French than I thought I knew and better than I thought I could, it was pretty easy for us to communicate and get around. The Tahitians are a warm and friendly people and when you speak Tahitian, their eyes light up. Learning the most basic cordials on the way from the airport to our hotel by the most hysterical Tahitian cab driver really set the tone for us and I learned an awful lot in the short ride from town. Hugging me and telling me how much she loved me, she made us feel genuinely welcome, even inviting us for dinner to her family home. I assure you, that doesn't happen every day but I've learned that when you connect with the locals, any travel adventure is bound to be an unforgettable experience and this was no different.
So our daily adventures were not only spontaneous and interesting, they were extraordinary, in fact. And every evening, making our way back to this spot, back to the food truck where we got the best BBQ chicken I have ever had, we always had smiles on our faces as we discussed the lovely memories of the day. And that is really saying a lot because my companion in adventure is quite an accomplished grill master himself. The barbeque we do is nothing to sneeze at, so this was less of an actual comparison than it was sheer amazement that the islanders could do an American style of BBQ that could impress this foodie-obsessed couple. But impressed we were. The other reason we stopped every night is that they also did veal hearts and lamb kidneys, all of which were extremely good. We weren't just compelled, we were obsessed!
But wait, there's more... lol! Because they also did poisson cru like none I've ever had before.... and that is what I had, perhaps twice a day, it was so damn good! The freshest tuna I have ever had, caught right from the ocean daily. We'd see it for sale, hanging clean and ready to go during our daily drives. Tuna, parrot fish, fresh coconuts, citrus, bananas, all abundantly and freely produced on the island. Probably the happiest place on earth. We actually noticed it... all happy, all content. I surmised that it was because they were all well fed! It couldn't have been too far off the mark though. Surrounded by beauty, the teenagers actually played, hung out at the beach, snacking on bread, fruit, listening to music. No phones... no devices... no distractions. Happy. Fed. Roof over their heads, fresh water. Adults who paid attention, but total freedom otherwise. Safe. Content... it was not lost on us.
Poisson cru, by the way is essentially fresh tuna prepared a few different ways: French style, like tuna tartare with olive oil, lemon, chive blossoms, salt and peppercorns or Tahitian style made with fresh coconut milk, red onions, cucumber, seeded tomatoes and lemongrass. I was simply blown away by it. And the portions they would serve would easily feed four so we would always have some the next day for breakfast or lunch. I adored it that much.
And most of the days we weren't tooling around in our little toy car, we spent at Pointe de Venus. Black sand, crystal clear water that looked black because of the gorgeous volcanic, super sugary soft sand was clear enough to see your toes even at 6 feet deep. The buoys kept you safe and close enough to shore although it was super popular with divers and surfers. Even though this beach was on an inlet just around the bend from our hotel, we preferred the non tourist location that one of the native islanders had recommended. Our little secret... Prolific with killer whales, I preferred my calm little beach where I could float and watch the clouds roll in and out, shuffling off past the local children trapping coconut crabs and hanging out with their friends to grab a jambon fromage. A ham and cheese fresh baguette from the other local food truck catering to the beach goers every day.
To us, Tahiti is a magical place and one we will go back to again, I am certain. It definitely was worth the stop on our way to New Zealand and it did exactly what was intended. It provided a beautiful respite during the long overseas journey, nearly nullifying the jetlag we would have surely felt more accurately had we not stopped for a little layover. A week wasn't long enough... and you know it's been a wonderful vacation when you aren't yet ready to leave and yet you have another magical place awaiting you just a few more hours onward. Cannot wait to go back!
