For All the Tea in China

What a freaking great day I have had!  Despite my misadventures from last night, I decided I would not let that ruin my impressions of this lovely city.

After all, according to Scarlet, "Tomorrow is anutha day..."

After lunch, I ventured forth to Shopping Park, a quick 5 minute train ride from the hotel that my Hong Kong compatriot had recommended.

I am and have been a big fan of jasmine tea, green tea, oolong tea, and now, Pu-erh or Pu'er teas.

Pu'er tea is a variety of post-fermented tea, specifically Dark Tea, produced in the Yunnan province of China.  Post-fermentation is a tea production style in which the tea leaves undergo a  microbial fermentation process after they are dried and rolled.  This is a Chinese specialty and is sometimes referred to as dark, or black tea.  This is completely different than the black tea we Westerners are familiar with and the Chinese refer to as "red" tea.  There are a few different provinces, each with a few regions, producing dark teas of different varieties.  These produced in Yunnan are very often referred to as Pu'er tea, which refers to the Pu'er county which used to be a trading post for dark tea during imperial China.

I have tried this type of tea before, but what I've never experienced until today was how cool a ceremonial tea service is!  I didn't require any ceremony per se, but it doesn't refer to any fanfare, but rather the process of serving tea.  My father in law can appreciate this better than most.  He abhors the very idea of Starbucks, not because of the coffee itself, but because of the culture it promotes. It used to make me giggle, how offended he gets over this, but what he is really trying to communicate is that coffee should be slow, enjoyed and savored, not served in a paper cup or drank in haste, on the run.  What waste, what haste...

After my "ceremony" today, I couldn't agree more.  Tea, should be appreciated in much the same manner as he enjoys coffee, slowly and with care and appreciation for the beverage and of course, good company. It is a wind down... not a wind up.

My tea ceremony, much to my amazement, lasted nearly 3 hours!  When was the last time you enjoyed anything over the course of 3 hours?  Not only did my lovely friend take the time to teach me about tea, but she rather enjoyed it, introducing me to what jasmine tea can really be when you take time.  Forget about rushing... The whole point is that tea, in China, develops its flavor over time and it has nuances which change its character as you go along.  Needless to say, I was intrigued, utterly fascinated and so appreciative that anyone would spend that much time sharing something, anything with me.  It will be as cemented in my memory as last night. Actually, far more so.  Now that, is an experience, right?

The presentation of the tea, teapots, tea cups is important.  It isn't just pretty or for show. It has real purpose and everything on that table was set just for me.  There were only 2 tables in this shop but no one rushes. No one hurries. No one pushes you to buy and move on. They want you to stay. They are eager to share and teach, especially engaging me, not because I had money to spend. They didn't know whether I would or wouldn't but that didn't change the interaction. In fact, I am certain that the majority of the people who stay to enjoy the ceremony do actually purchase, but the truth is I had no intentions when I went in, I was just curious and wanted to pick up some jasmine tea.

The ceremony starts with a tea selection and the water is heated, then she fills a very small pot with hot water and pours this into another very small pot that has a strainer and some of the loose tea. Depending on the type of tea, she chooses a different pot. The first cup poured, she dumps out.  The second cup she pours, she offers to me. The cups are no bigger than a shot glass really, but the idea is that you sip tea and the small pot ensures you don't make too much to be enjoyed fully.  The small cup ensures that you don't pour too much so it cools too quickly before you are done drinking it.  It is an art.

Jasmine tea, good jasmine tea, is rolled in a "gunpowder" style, or a tight little ball. The first pot she uses is clear glass so she can watch the tea unfurl and the color develop. We pour round after round of jasmine tea and the process goes from a light perfumed cup, light in body and flavor, to a darker, stronger cup as the tea unfurls and the procession continues.  What an eye opener!  It is delicate and beautiful, voluptuous in body and delicacy.

After we get about half way through the jasmine tea, she begins the procession for the Pu'er tea she has been teaching me about.  What a difference.  The complexity that develops over the course of the ceremony is so unique and she tells me in broken English that this is the tea you drink before bed as it is good for the stomach and good for "sleepy", she says smiling.  Sleepy. Ah, now that is what I'm talking about!  My husband and I are always on the hunt for a good bedtime tea.  I am thrilled. She eyes me knowingly and asks me, "How do you feel?"  I don't want to make up something so I just say, "Good!" And it's true. I feel great. But I'm having a good time of course.  However, over the course of our tea celebration, I realize that not only do I feel good, but I feel so relaxed!  I mean, super duper relaxed.  Chamomile tea is a very relaxing tea, but I have never experienced a relaxing effect quite like this.  It is decided. It is coming home as a gift to my husband for his birthday.

The store keeper comes over to check on us, suggesting other teas, but I am quite happy with what we have and have never enjoyed so much tea in one sitting. He brings a tray of treats, goodies that are traditional and I have another "whoa!" moment...  They both encourage me to try these little packages and to be congenial, I do.  The first was a caramel flavored with green tea. Good but not something I would go out of my way for as it seems too much like candy.  I think the general idea is that the sweets cleanse the palate between teas.

The next treat they put in front of me, she explains, is "flowers".  I am intrigued, so I try... I'm in heaven!  I can't believe what I've just had, otherworldly.  Never have I had anything like it and instantly, I shove the wrapper in my purse.  She points to a shelf. "Flowers," she says smiling, knowing that I am hooked.  In the bag sitting next to me it goes.  I don't know what it is exactly, but I think it is hibiscus flowers that are flavored with Jin Xuan tea.  The box says "Roselle flowers".  A quick lookup on Wikipedia confirms my suspicion. It is indeed hibiscus flowers!  Amazing.

The next treat is very similar but distinct.  Tomatoes flavored with Jin Xuan tea.  Holy cow, I'm in trouble. These are every bit as awesome as the hibiscus treats. I snatch up a box of these as well.  The look on my face tells the story. I am enjoying myself more than I can say.  She is genuinely pleased and continues to serve the tea until our long and lovely service is complete. I know there is one thing left to do: select a tea service so that I can share this with my husband and enjoy this ritual when we need to slow down a little.  Take a breather, smell the roselles... :)  No longer will we have a quick tea.  From now, on, we will live and enjoy tea the Chinese way... on a slow boat.  A very slow boat to China.

Lookie Lookie

Last night was my first venture into Luohu that had a less than loving flavor…  During the week, it's just the regular shopkeepers. Come Friday night, the freaks come out.

I have not been openly harassed like this since we strolled along the main drag in Playa del Carmen, Cancun, Mexico and even then the Mexicans are so laid back and perhaps a tad lazy that they don't really harass but more guilt-beg for the business. A simple no, especially from a man, will usually send them on their merry way.  I am sure that the same is true here in China, but last night was a nice Friday evening and as such, it was nice enough for the freakies to get really aggressive.

I'm white.  I'm perhaps a bit taller than most men here. I stick out worse than a sore thumb so they saw me coming in my red pantsuit a mile away. Mental note: wear black, take off the makeup, ditch the designer handbag and maybe throw in a limp…. Having said that, I did all the wrong things that I should have known better but because I have felt increasingly confident, and safe, during the last two weeks, I got a little complacent.  

NEVER be complacent about common sense and safety.  I learned this last night.

I was prepared to say No! in a very strong voice.  What I wasn't prepared for is that NO here, on a Friday night, actually means, Oh, Please, chase me around town until I give in and buy something from you.  When I got off the train station and headed into the shopping district known as Qi, I was followed by a man up the elevator who tried to talk to me. I sharply told him NO! He said he remembered me from last week and he had helped me find my handbag. I looked at him and for a split second thought I did recognize him so I apologized for my rude behavior and asked him to take me to the same shop.  

First mistake. Talking to him. Second mistake. Believing we had met before. Third mistake. Letting him take me all over the shopping center winding around the back, up stairs, down aisles until I finally knew what he was doing.  He was trying to get me lost and confused.  It worked.  He took me to a  handbag shop and the girl told me she would exchange the handbag I had come to exchange with the original shopkeeper.  I knew she wasn't the one but she said she was calling her friend and would take care of it. I settled down a bit…. just a bit. My alarms were up.

Sensing the game that was about to play out, I let it. She asked me what I was looking for tonight, what new bags did I want to buy. Ah, here it goes I thought. She was willing to exchange my bag of course if I would buy again from her. I had no intention of doing so.  So, I gave her a made up brand that I wanted. She was confused. No Coach, no Louis Vuitton, no Hermes, no Prada? No. I wanted blablabla. Oh, we don't have that and she asked me to write it down so I did. Nope, still no recognition of the made up brand. Good, I was making a clear way for my exit.

Except, they take me to a different shop to see the girl I had come to see, although when we get there, I know this still isn't the right one. I had come equipped with the shopkeepers business card just in case.  I ask for the same made up brand and off we go to another shop. Although, this time, I let him get too far ahead of me and just as he ducks in, I quickly turn around and head back up the escalator making quick work of it while he yells, "My friend, my friend, wait!"  I keep going. He gives chase. He finally catches up. Shit.  I'm not James Bond apparently, but I seriously didn't think he would literally run after me, chase after me like some getaway movie. But he did. People were watching and laughing, knowing I was trying to get rid of him and at this point, I still didn't feel like it was a real threat.

Finally I stop and look him dead in the eye. I give him the card and tell him in a strong voice. TAKE ME THERE. He knows I'm serious.  He agrees. He takes me to the shop.  As soon as I get there, the girl who sold me the handbag recognizes me and says something to him sharply. They have an exchange, he goes and waits outside.  She asks me if I know him and I tell her that no, he is following me, driving me crazy and I want him to go away. She looks concerned. She tells me I must be careful. He told her that he was coming back with his cousin and they would take me to their warehouse. She looks worried and says, NO GO. Dangerous!  No must go!  Be careful.  Very bad.  Now, I am worried, not just alarmed. I assure her that I will go nowhere with this man and make up my mind that this has gotten out of hand and I will return home as soon as we are done. She gives me her card again and tells me to call her if I need help or get lost.

Hell no. I'm not getting lost and I am going right home. I've had enough of this Shanghai Surprise.  I gather my wits and start to leave, he begins to follow me so I turn on him and as loud as I can tell him LEAVE ME THE F ALONE! and point right at him. He stops. He is stunned. I get on the escalator down and do not take my eyes off him.  As I am exiting the building, winding my way back to my landmarks, always keeping my destination ahead, I am surrounded by people and a myriad of voices, "Hey missy, missy, lookie lookie, Chanel, watches, missy, missy, handbags, lookie lookie…" and another man approaches me. This time I am fierce. And loud.  He actually hits me and I whirl on him, "DON'T YOU DARE F-ING TOUCH ME!" and he yells, "I hate you."  I flip him off and push him. He is surprised.

At this point, I am outside and there are police so I know I've made it to the "border"; back to reality, back to safety. This type of behavior is known as Shen Zai (not sure if I am spelling it right) or in other words, what I have just experienced is highly illegal and a prosecutable offense but these freaks know where their "zone" is and they know how to get lost quicker than I know how to escape in James Bond fashion. Where are the sharp studs on my shoes when I need them?  Must find some brass knuckles...

The metro is literally beneath the shopping center so I knew that if I got outside or even down to the basement level, I was home free.  I make my way to the train I need to take and board just as the doors are closing. Wow.  Not really interested in doing that again, no matter how good the shopping is.  I make up my mind not to go again until my colleague comes back on Sunday. We are scheduled to meet the tailor again for final fittings and this time, I am glad we are going during the day, glad I will have a male companion and glad that I escaped with nothing more than a very, very fast heartbeat and a slew of curse words said under my breath… I take a deep breath and let the train soothe me back to a calmer state.

Bottom line: safe is relative when you are a visitor. Safe is not a given even in a country where harming a Westerner is punishable by death. Safe is absolutely nothing to ever take for granted and if you do not wish to be a target like I made myself last night, then take every precaution to blend in as much as you can.  When in doubt, scream or run or just generally make a scene. Luckily, I do this even without trying so it worked out and I left with nothing more than a little bit of a scare. But that is no way to spend a Friday night, I can certainly tell you that.  Wish I would have opted for a movie. :) 

My Endless Trip to Hong Kong

7 am - I get up early enough so I can get ready and have breakfast before meeting my friend in the lobby at 8:15 am to begin our trip. We've been told that we should leave before 9 am am to try to beat the "traffic" into Hong Kong.

8:15 am - Head down to the lobby.  I think I am doing great so far, right on time.

8:30 am - We have already made our way to Lok Ma Chan (Futian Port) where we need to go through Border Patrol (Immigration) and Customs. It didn't really register with either of us that we'd have to pass through Border Patrol in Shenzhen, as well as Customs and then through Border Patrol in Hong Kong, as well as Customs in Hong Kong. Holy Hell. This is going to take a while, we think... We have no idea what's actually in store.


9:30 am - Still in the queue of the queue for China's Immigration.  It is hot and humid and I'm standing in a sea of Chinese people; I'm feeling trapped and claustrophobic so I try to make my way to the very edge of this China Sea.  I make friends with the little boy in front of me who keeps shaking his booty at me.  I try to pinch it; he laughs.  My colleague tells me I might get arrested, so I stop. LOL!

10:30 am - Holy Toledo.  Seriously glad I had breakfast.... I usually don't. Just made it to the actual queue for China Border patrol. This is the oddest thing I've ever participated in. Like a sack race with no sacks. They let in people in waves and as the wave in front of you moves, everyone, in a giant rush, waves forward. It's hilarious and disturbing, just a little. I start to wonder wtf we are doing this for...

11:30 am - No lie, I am trying not to panic and abandon ship. I know we are almost there. Aren't we? Holy Moly, someone kill me. This is hell. Ok, I try to remember, this is "an experience". I'm over it and just want to go back home. :)

12:30 pm - ARE YOU KIDDING ME ANOTHER FREAKING QUEUE??? I think I might hurt myself or someone if I see another line forming near me, anywhere. This is what my Chinese colleague was trying to tell me all week, this takes forever.  I think my companion wants to commit suicide... He didn't have breakfast. :(  This is the queue for Hong Kong and I try to smile and pinch the kids butt one more time. This time, he lets me. lol!

1:00 pm - We have finally made it into Hong Kong, passed Immigration, passed Customs and now need to pick up our train to Hong Kong, which should take about 45 minutes if we go all the way to where we are supposed to go. We abandon the plan. Screw Hong Kong. The train stops at Mong Kok, a "cheaper" version of the high class shopping we had been directed to in Hong Kong proper.  Neither of us are feeling very classy, but rather hungry, fussy, exhausted and sort of losing the lust to shop till we drop. I'm think the drop part is too close at hand...

1:30 pm - Whoa. We make it to Monk Kok and it's intense. This is more shopping than anyone should be allowed to do and it's more in line with our price points and the type of goodies we want to bring home.  We need food.  We need to sit down. We need to think hard about our next steps. There are people everywhere; it's intense.  We keep saying, "Holy Shit..." to no one in particular. Can't believe what we've just been through.  We duck down some alleys, behind the shopping tents crowding the streets and see a clean Indian restaurant with open tables. Perfect. We order food, two giant beers (Tsing Tao) and settle into business.

2:15 pm - Whew.  Food and beer changes things. We both feel better. My friend has stopped cursing in Scottish and hasn't yawned in like, 5 minutes. I hope he makes it.  Each of us have about 1000 HKD. Not much for serious shopping, I think, but we haven't had the greatest of luck with ATM's, being only successful at getting cash 1 in 8 times. That really sucks and puts a damper on things but we are Mong Kok warriors by now, we can do this. Armed with what is the equivalent of $100 USD each, we head out and learn to haggle the Chinese way. Intense. I need to practice so we agree to do just that and this part, we both enjoy immensely, playing Good Cop/Bad Cop to help each other get the price we're after. We don't really know the price we're after, we're just trying to see how low we can get before the vendor caves, sulks or let's us walk away.

3:15 pm - Oh my goodness, I was born to do this. My colleague thinks I'm ruthless but I can see that this is a game you have to play and this is a game they expect you to play. If you don't play, you don't win. I'm going to win... What in the heck can you get for $100 USD. I'm feeling pretty good with my haggling skills but I haven't bought much yet.

3:45 pm - We need to find a bathroom and have a drink. We stop in at McDonald's. McDonald's that shares a building with a couple of rent-by-the-hour wink-wink hotels. Bizarre. I can't stop staring. I stand in the bathroom queue (seeing a theme here??) for like a half hour. I'm a woman, used to it, but by now, I think I might just go outside and squat somewhere. I don't, but I think it would be ok if I chose to do so...

4:15 pm - We are freaking exhausted. We simply do not give a shit about shopping any longer. It doesn't matter how many awesome things are waving in our faces. It is awesome, overwhelming, exhausting and freakishly beautiful all at the same time. I see an ATM, withdraw another $100 USD and head back to the first lady I haggled down so much she let me leave. But not before agreeing to my price. I just didn't have enough money at the time to buy the goods and still have train money to go home. I knew: going home was key. LOL!  Success! I get the cash and head back to Loud Ling. I know I've got the best deal to be had because she sees me, quietly ushers me all the way to the back and very secretively takes my money and fills the bags with the goods so none of her other customers catch wind of our deal.  Only when I get home later do I realize just how ruthless I had been and what an unimaginable deal I just walked away with.

5:00 pm - We are toast. We are actually burnt toast. We are so done. Amazingly skilled by now at knowing where we need to go in these crowded, festive, shopping laden streets, we head back towards our train station. We are so good at this, we decide to take a different train back because it's faster, more direct than the route we took before and because, we are standing right in front of the closest station.  Our packages are heavy. My friend is so pooped out, he didn't buy a single thing, but he's being a gentleman and helping me carry my loot. It's small, but, surprisingly heavy.  My brothers are going to keel over when they see what I got for them. I'm still in shock.

5:15 pm - We are both so tired on the train back that we are dozing in and out, completely oblivious to anyone and anything around us. We have first class seats, it's air conditioned and we know we have about 40 minutes to forget where the hell we are and the endless queues that await us for the journey back across the freaking shared border that is so not shared between mainland China and Hong Kong.

5:45 pm - Queue the queue.  I think we both sag as we see the queues again. It's like a flashback. Not the good kind. I shiver. He groans. We look at each other and kinda chuckle. What are you gonna do? We WILL GET HOME. We put on brave faces. I look for a butt to pinch...

6:30 pm - Well, not too bad. 45 minutes beats the HELL out of 4 hours...  We just made the early rush. Hoards of people push in just as we leave and we both sigh...  Only a few more train connections, easy ones, now that we are in Shenzhen. Home territory. We got this. Piece of cake.... We press into the train, body to body to body with so many bodies that if I laugh, I might eat someone's hair, that is how close I am to everyone. Smashed in like sardines, holding onto nothing just using body pressure to stay inside the train.  4 stops, 2 more connections.  We can both feel it. We are almost home...

7:00 pm - The Walking Dead. We have made it back to Zhu Zi Lin, our home station near the hotel. THANK FREAKING GOD WE SURVIVED FAKE HONG KONG.  My colleague and I just agree that for all intents and purposes, we will just lie at the office and tell everyone we had an awesome time in Hong Kong, highly recommend it, no need to have breakfast, just eat in Hong Kong... LOL!  Facetious little creatures. But we are tired and really, if no one would tell you that you weren't in Hong Kong but in Mong Kok, you would never know. The shopping is a lot more affordable and we had gotten this tip from the concierge just prior to our departure which is why we actually departed from the plan. Cheap is good.

7:10 pm - I have showered and am ready for bed and go online to check prices of what I've just bought. This girl has done well, Grasshopper.... Very very well.

8:00 pm - HAPPY ANNIVERSARY, MY BELOVED!!!!  It's our 12th wedding anniversary today for me, but for you, it won't be until tomorrow.  It's been the longest day of my existence today and I feel like I haven't been so tired and beat down since our trip through the Italian Alps but I can say that for sure, like that 24 hours, it won't be a day I will ever forget.  Can't wait to do this heinous "once in a lifetime experience" with you!  Hopefully, I will be a frequent traveler then and can use the e-Channel to make this more enjoyable. And if not, sorry love, you are on your own! :)

The Tailor of Shenzhen

Shopping in Shenzhen reminds me a little of China Town in Manhattan.  But the difference here is that the shopping district in Shenzhen is more like the Chinese version of Mall of America in Little Las Chinese Vegas.

I saw this city at night for the first time on Tuesday, during my first week here in Shenzhen.  My first exploration!

Unfortunately, we need to be on the bus to go to work by 8 am and do not return home until 7pm. Needless to say, it is an extremely long work day and at the end of it, an extremely exhausting work week.

By the time we get into Luohu, which is the end of the Luobo line, it is 7:30 pm.  The shopping building and the myriad of shops crammed into its 5 stories is immense, but come 9 pm, the doors start to roll down and everyone is heading home for the night.  We have little time to do what we came here to do: which was to make an introduction to the fabric dealer and tailor we have come to meet. 

This trip was primarily just to show me the ropes of getting on the metro and finding my way to the shopping area of Shenzhen. Truly, now that I've been here more than a week, I know that there is shopping to be had all over Shenzhen, however, the best deals and selection is in Luohu, an easy 20 minute train ride away.

My colleague hustles me quickly to the 5th floor where most of the fabric dealers are. At first, I think we are headed into the largest fabric store I have ever seen, but as we twist and wind our way through bolts and bolts of fabric, I am dazzled and want to stop and touch everything.  But at last we come to a nook where we stop and there are about 5 ladies waiting for us. My colleague handed me off to our Chinese companion who would act as our translator and negotiator during our transactions in Luohu. I would come to appreciate her more and more over the days to come, but in that instant, I am welcomed by these ladies as if they had known me for years. After a few short discussions and a lot of fabric-fondling, they quickly discern my tastes and show me bolt after bolt of beautiful fabric that would come to be my new suits and winter coats.

It is like speed shopping on steroids but I already had a budget in mind and knew what I was interested in having made. It helped a great deal to have someone who knew the language and could accurately translate my needs. Invaluable really.  So much for simple introductions. We get straight to business. It takes me about 20-30 minutes to select fabrics and only on our way back through do I take notice of the numbered stalls.  This isn't just one huge floor of a fabric store, it is hundreds of fabric "stores", each one numbered for a paying vendor who rents space here like stalls in a flea market. I start to understand as the other vendors milling around stare at me sadly wishing I was visiting them, but not daring to speak to me now that I had a vendor. It is code and a respected custom. They do not actively try to steal each other's customers and this, I appreciate.  

My fabric lady is jovial and has me figured out pretty quickly, showing me fabrics I could only say yes to.  As we select fabrics for this or that, she cuts a corner off the fabric and slides the fabric samples onto safety pins. Not sure how her system works but she remembers exactly what I have selected and what I have selected it for.  I am extremely impressed and have an innate, gut confidence in this woman's expertise. I almost giggle.

So after a whirlwind fabric affair, we wind our way back through the fabric maze to another stall hidden way back in the corner, referred to only as #19.  This stall is equipped with racks of clothes waiting for pick up by their owners.  There are tables and comfortable club chairs, a semi-private dressing room for fittings and a large English desk where we conduct the tailoring business. You select fabrics first and then get down to the business of the actual tailoring afterwards.

One of the women lays down a heavy stack of fashion magazines and exclusive well-known name brand fashion designer catalogs. I sift through page after page and begin to associate the various fabric swatches I've selected with the pieces I want to have made. I select, the tailor reviews and makes a few sketches, jots down page numbers, etc and lastly tapes a fabric swatch to the order form for each piece.  I see items I want but don't like this or that and my companion quickly interprets my wishes while the tailor makes sketches and shows me. I am in awe. She is sketching it exactly as I am describing it and I feel oddly connected to these women. The tailor makes suggestions, tells me whether the fabric I've selected is a good choice for the piece and is extremely helpful.  After about 45 minutes, we have completed the order and she takes my measurements for each and every piece, noting the precise measurements on each order form.  

My colleague who had brought me here for introductions is extremely impressed as he's never witnessed a female in action and keeps telling me that in fact, he's never met a woman so decisive as I am. He is dumbfounded by how easily and how quickly we are working through our selections.  He is patient and I can tell that he wouldn't have left me alone there even if I had insisted, he was so fascinated by this process, admiring my selections in an appreciative male sort-of way.  Women understand women, no matter what the culture or language barrier and after this, we all feel as if we've known each other for many moons.

Finally, we get down to the nitty gritty and the haggling over final pricing begins. This goes back and forth a while between my newly hired negotiator and translator before she pitches the final price to me. It is staggering. But not in the way you expect.  I have to restrain myself from getting up and going back for more fabric… But I resist.  I get all of my order processed for what it would have cost me to have bought one designer dress off the rack back home in a department store and I'm trying not to pee my pants with excitement.  I should haggle down a bit, I know, but I don't. I give the impression that I am thinking this over carefully and then slowly nod my acceptance. I don't have enough cash to cover the total order but my friend offers to help me put down a deposit and I agree to pay him back the next morning.  Done deal.

They quickly close up shop and as I leave, they come over and hug me and give me kisses calling me "Pretty lady."  Of course, I think that any paying customer is likely to receive this complement but for some reason, I think they are sincere and I quickly come to understand that this is what these ladies need in order to survive here.  Pretty ladies with spending money are their lifeline and helps to keep them from the streets, which I have come to learn is the more common fate for women with few skills or opportunity.  But these women have skills aplenty and I am quite in awe of their spirit.

I leave feeling satisfied with my purchase but most of all, inspired to be the kind of women these women can also admire and look up to.  I want to give back somehow and until I figure out how to do something more meaningful, I will spend my money carefully and considerately, in an effort to support the work these women do and aspire to do. Above all, I will pay it forward and send them new customers when I have a chance to befriend a new colleague or recruit on our team. This, is how it's done, in my beautiful, beautiful China.

Grocery Shopping in Shenzhen

On Tuesday night, a colleague from work offered to take me into Luohu, the shopping district here in Shenzhen. I will write a separate post about that particular experience because it deserves a devoted post; it was that amazing.

Another fascinating aspect of that evening was trying to blend in and do normal things like the locals. In addition to taking me shopping, my new friend showed me some important "take care of myself" activities, such as how to get around on the train (referred to as the Metro) and familiarizing myself with my home-away-from-home.  

The smell of roasted peanuts is especially inviting and surprising, because I had no idea the Chinese were so in love with peanuts. But in love, they surely are as street vendors park outside our hotel, which is conveniently close to the Metro, and sell these peanuts day and night. Peanuts and lemon peel, that is what it smells like when you come out of the Metro as the peanut guy sells his peanuts right next to the girl with the citrus wagon. That is a smell that can turn a frown upside down but no one really frowns in Shenzhen and the people are friendly and cheerful, even though they work awful hard.

On our way back from Luohu, we strolled through a side street near my hotel so my very considerate colleague could show me the ropes of how to get cash from an ATM, how to pick up toiletries and how to get groceries or food outside of the hotel where we all live.

This street was a sort of location warp, being so different from the Western sophistication of our hotel, but definitely my speed.  It is almost like the "back" of the house, while the hotel is the figurative "front" of the house.  Whole families gather in the evenings to share inexpensive eats made by the street vendors here and groups of men gather around tables, under umbrellas and play backgammon. I must ask them if I can take a picture but being new to the neighborhood, I tried to be respectful and just take it all in without intruding on their privacy. It is an everyday thing as I've witnessed this now-familiar street scene almost every night as I pass by on my way home from work. 

It might be difficult to tell from the pictures but they are just gathering around makeshift tables with stools and sharing stir-frys, satays, fresh fruit, steaming bowls of rice and other local goodies; all yummy stuff. They put it all in the middle and just share everything, family-style, everyone taking a bite with chopsticks and passing it around.  No fuss, no fanfare, but lots of lively conversation with bits of Chinese music tinkling in the air. It feels magical, peaceful.

The building on the right is a two story building with lots of small shops and stores inside, selling everything from computer cables, to iPhones, to socks and shoes.  And it isn't cheap-looking crap.  Well, ok, some of it is but for the most part, it betters anything you'd ever find at Wal-Mart or even some stores in the Mall.

The second floor is one, very large grocery store and tucked away in a corner of the grocery store is a Chinese Laundry.  I have no idea what makes Chinese launderers so good but it is a fact, a well known fact amongst my colleagues, that the Chinese KNOW laundry.  We actually have discussions about it on a daily basis and having experienced the magic they do myself, I chime in, gushing about it, too.  I myself, have a laundry budget of $100 RMB, which is the Yuan Renminbi (Yuan, Renminbi, RMB are used interchangeably) and I make a point of using my laundry budget every day because it is really exceptional.  

I am seriously going to miss my Chinese laundry service when I return home... but more than that, I know like I know like I know that I will miss this street in particular and the nightly family scene here even more.

Technology on the Road

China is a Communist country and some of the freedoms I have come to take for granted as an American citizen are pretty apparent here.  Well, actually, all I have experienced so far is limited access to some websites and just as the news reports, Google is not well loved by the Chinese government.  That really sucks for me because at work, we use Google Apps and all of my personal emails are gmail accounts.

Email seems to work, which is quite critical.  However, blogging using Google owned Blogger was next to impossible.  I successfully posted once and never again.  I was blocked by China and at the same time I was struggling with this, I saw a news report on CNN talking about just this issue: China blocks Google services.  BOO!

Hubby to the rescue.  Not to be too sappy, but he really made such a huge effort in the 24 hours just before my departure to get me all squared away for any contingencies. His efforts must be acknowledged.

My client warned me that if I had to use a client issued laptop or desktop, it would be in a Chinese OS. Oh, and I would get intranet access on it but I wouldn't get internet access. Intranet access is just access to the client's internal websites but you don't actually get access to the internet.  Well, hell.  It would have been good to know this with more than 15 hours notice. I had a prep call with my client at 7:30 pm on Wednesday night and was due to board my plane at 1pm on Thursday.  At 8pm, Wednesday night just after my call with my client, Hubby and I jumped in the car to head to Apple so I could pick up an Airbook just before the mall closed by my house.  Crazy!

But I have no regrets.  I love Apple. My brother will be sick that I didn't involve him as he works for Apple but I seriously didn't have time to ask him or inquire if I could use his discount.

So, to get around all kinds of access issues, I bit the bullet. It is a business expense after all but as you can see, this is quite an expensive business trip.  But, a laptop like this should last me a year or two.

It seems minor, but I use the internet to do my job, it's as simple as that.  And I need it to communicate with my husband and family while I am away, just as important.  The coolest thing by far, is my Apple Airport.  It is a small wireless, secure access point (like a router by cooler).  I plug it into the ethernet cable at the hotel or work and from there, all of my devices can access the internet wirelessly from my own private, mini network.  It is hacker resistant, too. Maybe not for the Chinese but still, it will take them an awful long time to hack into my network.

For this trip, I needed:

1. Apple MacBook Air laptop (super thin, super lightweight and pretty powerful for such a lightweight machine)
2. VMWare Fusion 5 software - this allows me to run my Windows-based Virtual Machines on my laptop
3. Apple's International Charger and Converter kit - this has adapter plugs for various countries which means I can recharge my laptop using China's electric outlets. If you don't have the right adapter/converter for your electric devices, you will kill them (no lie) if you try to plug them into a socket without one.
4. An extra converter we "adopted" from a hotel we stayed at and accidentally didn't return, which turned out to be pretty important. This one I use to plug in the Airport above.  The other Apple converters charge my devices: iPod, iPad and Airbook.
5. A spare ethernet cable
6. A portable external hard drive (where I store my work stuff)
7. My iPad and iPod - yes I need them all!
8. My cell phone - it actually works now using Wi-Fi (no roaming charges for calls or texts) thanks to my Airport. Otherwise, it would be useless here.

That's a lot of stuff just to make internet access work in a secure and protected way, huh?  But well worth the effort.  It is a major part of the work I do and since the Chinese are known to be excellent hackers (ask the U.S. Government lol!), it is only prudent to take security seriously.

One other thing we had to do was to use a proxy server (thank you, again, Hubby, you genius) to mask my Chinese IP address.  This was necessary because the Chinese were blocking me access to this blog account and other websites.  Since we set this up, my internet sites load so much more quickly and since I need access to certain websites for doing my job, it was critical.  Hopefully, I don't get a knock at my hotel door asking me to kindly stop... :)

Hong Kong Bang a Gong

I arrived in Hong Kong just after 11pm, Friday night. I went through immigration without any trouble and it was fast, friendly and easy. On your flight, the airline will provide customs forms that you show to immigration with your passport. This just helps your host country keep track of you and people coming into the US have to do this as well. It is all a part of global travel and we are lucky to live in an age where this is even possible.

As I write this, I am being driven to my hotel across the border in mainland China to a city called Shenzhen. It is quite hot here and the first thing I did was take off my coat. :) second thing I did was to make a mental note that nothing in my megatron suitcase is appropriate for this warm weather. Ah, live and learn. It feels like Houston and my wardrobe is anything but Houston-appropriate. Kinda funny. Not... But I will manage.

When I left home "today" it was 1 pm Thursday afternoon. China is 14 hours ahead of us (Central Standard Time). That means that I have lost some time, right? I will make that up on the flight home and it just could happen that my arrival back in the US will have me arriving before I left... :) by the time I make it to the hotel, it will be around 1 am Saturday. I left on Thursday, arrived on Saturday. Whew, what happened to Friday?

My Chinese visa allows me multiple entries into China, as I mentioned in my previous post. That means I can explore Hong Kong with friends or a hired chaperone (more on that later) on the weekends or perhaps on my way home, without losing my visiting privileges in China. often times with work visas, you are allowed one entry only which means if you drive across the border into Hong Kong for the weekend, you will not be allowed back into China.

You can apply for different entry types and mine is the most flexible. I was told that I would not be granted this type of visa, but I called the Visa Processor in charge and asked. Not a problem, as long as you have an invitation (which I did) and your passport isnt too close to expiring (mine wasnt), so despite being told otherwise, I was granted this privilege.

We are now stopped at border patrol where they will review my documentation: passport, visa and customs forms. That was easy. My driver handed my passport to the agent and rolled down my window so they could see my face and make sure I wasnt the Queen. A young Chinese man greeted me, validated my documents and waived us through. Hardest part is over. I have arrived in Shenzhen safe and sound.

We are stuck in traffic now that we are across the border in Shenzhen. I am ready for a shower and bed and actually, I am quite hungry so perhaps a bite to eat is in order before bed. I may be too late for the hotel kitchen but I have an energy bar in my bags, just for that reason.

I was told it would take an hour and a half to get to the hotel and with this traffic, I can see why that might indeed be true. Not a good sign when your driver gets out of the car to wait and have a smoke... Guess this might take a while. I am feeling relatively good considering I just spent 20 hours in a plane. I slept the whole way fom Tokyo to Hong Kong, thankfully.

Ah, the delays are because we have hit the Immigration inspection patrol. People are popping the trunks of their cars. My luggage may be inspected or searched. Hope they dont find the bodies... :) it looks routine and no one is actually searching the cars, guess you just need to open the trunk in case they want to take a look. Oh nope, they wanted to look at me again. I smile. Even though I am not the Queen.

Next stop, Wonton Soup. I hope...

Hk

Hello Tokyo!

Upon arrival in Tokyo, I had to exit the plane and then pass back through security to make my connecting flight to Hong Kong. As expected, I did not have to pass through immigration. Easy peasy Japanesey, it turned out. My layover here was just under an hour so to be on the safe side, I didn't dilly dally, although I wanted to explore a bit. In an unfamiliar airport with a short layover, it is better to head to your next gate right away so you don't get lost or become frantic if you need help finding it.

Tokyo's Narita airport is smaller than Houston or Minneapolis airports but it is safe, very clean and has the same high end shops you would find in other airports. It also had some super fun looking tea shops, cafes and souvenir shops. But, I will have more time for exploring and less to carry if I wait to buy goodies and "surprises" on the way home. It will be more enjoyable because it will be a bit more familiar and I will know how much time is necessary to get from gate to gate.

What I found challenging was determining which gate I needed to head towards in order to catch the next leg of my flight. The flight monitors did display both English and Japanese but I didnt see my flight listed. Not to worry. I asked a passing flight attendant to kindly point me towards the airport information desk. There, they could look up flights that were not on the monitor. I think I was just a few minutes early which was why my flight wasnt displaying when I first looked.

The point to keep in mind is: even if you think you are lost or feel disoriented in a new airport, there will usually be a service representative somewhere who can help you. Be courteous and respectful and remember when you are in their country, you are the foreigner so leave your insecurities at home and be as pleasant and courteous as you would expect a guest to be in your home county. Even total strangers are often very willing to assist and help you if you mind your manners and ask politely.

Back in my seat, heading to Hong Kong. 6 more hours and I will be in Hong Kong. But my journey won't be quite over yet. A driver is meeting me at the airport in Hong Kong and will drive me across the border into China.

Next stop, Hong Kong. I am very excited to see this famed city. I have been told that it is a bustling city like New York City and Manhattan, but cleaner. :) Can't be bad, right?

Converting US Dollars to Chinese Yuan

Part of any trip to a foreign country is, of course, spending money. Our country's currency is the US Dollar. In China, they also have a paper-based currency like ours but instead of the "dollar", they use Yuan (pronounced yen, like hen).

When I arrive in Tokyo, Japan later today, I will just be there long enough to change planes. Because it is a short layover, I won't have to pass through immigration. At least I dont think so. As long as you dont leave the secured area after you deplane from the US, you typically dont need to go through immigration unless you will be staying.

Immigration is just a special area where local airport security verifies your passport so they know who is visiting their country and for how long. It is just a line somewhere in the airport that you stand in with other people who are also coming into the country. A security official greets you, asks to see your passport and if you are staying there, they validate your photo in your passport, give you a stamp with the date of arrival so that they can keep track of when you are due to depart. Very official, but not scary and the fun part is collecting country stamps in your passport like badges of where you have been.

Not only do you need a passport, but often times you need a visitors or work visa, depending on how long you stay. I needed a work visa as I mentioned in my first post, but all that really is is a special page in your passport (which looks like a little book with your name, date of birth and passport details). Your passport, when you first get it, is a book of empty pages just waiting to be filled up with adventures and stamps of where you have been.

My passport now has a special page, printed in English and Chinese, giving me permission to work in China, and in fact, come and go quite freely for the next twelve months. Each time I visit, I can stay for up to 3 months, as many times as will fit in a twelve month period. Kinda neat!

So, now that you understand how that works, the next thing you need to figure out is how to get around in a foreign country with foreign language speakers. Speaking English in a funny Chinese voice doesnt count. :) I must remember this... I will cover that next perhaps as I will have to learn a few new things myself!

As for the currency conversion goes, you have a couple of options. At the airport, there is usually a place that will convert your money to the local monies. At MSP, my airport, I could get Chinese Yuan by having them take cash or use my credit card and they will exchange your dollars for you. The currency rates are posted and these rates will change on a daily basis but they are based on official data. The rates are legitimate and based on fair market value, but the currency exchange stations usually charge a transaction fee, so make sure you pay attention to the fees. When in doubt, do some research to see what your best options are. Your bank can be very helpful, too.

So now I have Chinese money, which I will need when I land in Hong Kong, but I have to get to Tokyo first. I will only be there about an hour and a half so I shouldnt need any Japanese currency. Most countries will accept American credit cards like Mastercard and Visa but your bank or credit card may charge you currency conversion fees, too. Not necessarily bad since it is convenient but it isnt always free so keep that in mind.

Next stop, Japan.

 

 

 

 

Posted with Blogsy

Flying Business Class Overseas

This is my Business Class seat on my way to Tokyo. I have flown Business Class before but these are the new Delta planes that are used primarily for international travel. 

What is super nice about this type of seat is that they recline to lay completely flat and there are usb ports for recharging your devices. If you have ever flown coach on a long flight, you know how terribly uncomfortable and cramped it can be even for short, domestic flights.  I am pretty sure that those seats are only tolerable for children except my nephew who may forever shun coach class now that he's seen this crazy seat. I had a similar type of plane on the way from Tokyo to Hong Kong, which was great because by then I was super tired from the 13.5 hour flight to get to Tokyo.  When you want to sleep, laying flat makes a really long flight not only comfortable but quite so.

I doubt I will be so lucky on the way home. :)  

By the way, don't even think this is an affordable luxury.  On a good day, Business Class flights booked well in advance are several thousand dollars depending on where your journey takes you.  For business travel with a flight over 12 hours in duration, most clients do throw in Business Class, as a general rule.  However, a trip like I just made which was just over 20 hours in total duration, booked within 24 hours was the most expensive flight I have ever paid for in my life.  Take a wild guess and you will be off by $10,000 dollars.  I made my Dad guess and he was shocked. So was I. This flight was just under $12,000.  Now, this is reimbursed by my client when I submit my expenses, which I have already done. LOL!  However, what you are probably concluding by now is that I had to pay out of my own pocket first... GULP.  

I had to wrangle with American Express who kindly upped my business credit card but it only covered 8K.  Taking a wild chance, I used my card anyway to see if I could push the limit, pun intended, and whaddya know, my first lucky break. It went through!  Problem solved. But still, I was a little freaked out at having such an enormous charge. My client offered to pay my expenses as soon as I hit town so this should be resolved before the bill is due.  Let's pray it works out that way! :)

Getting a job these days is EXPENSIVE. And, well, I have to go to China just to get one. LOL! But I was all too willing to go the distance for such an extraordinary experience.  Thanks to the support and encouragement of my family, husband and friends, I was eager to do what so many Westerners dream about... I am experiencing the Far East.

Planning for a Trip to China

This is a map of the world from 1911. I know, not current, but it's still cool to look at. Primarily, I wanted to put some context to just how far away China is from us...

The distance from the continental United States to China is about 7000 miles. Hawaii is about 6075.  That's pretty far!

From this map, it might be hard to tell but China is roughly the same size as the US but has quite a few more souls than we do.  An estimate on April 2, 2012 showed that the US population was estimated at 313,315,000 people. 

Just to demonstrate a comparative: 1/5 of the world's population. In other words, 1 out of 5 people in the world lives in China. That is about 1.3 billion people, so if my 2nd grade math does me justice, that is about 4 times as many people sharing the same amount of space than we have here. 

My first trip to China will take me from Minnesota to Tokyo, from Tokyo to Hong Kong and a driver will pick me up to drive me across the Chinese border to Shenzhen, where I will be working for 3 weeks.

Apparently, I need a visa to travel to China and visas for work related purposes, such as the one I need, are only granted if you are extended an invitation.

I am doing work on behalf of a well-known consulting firm so they sent me a formal letter inviting me to work in China for three weeks.  Part of this letter is my host's commitment to the Chinese government that my well being is provided for during my stay and that I will not become a burden to the Chinese people during my visit.

In addition to the invitation letter, there is a visa application that is also filled out with information about your passport and upcoming visit, including emergency contact information, health insurance information, passport details, the location of where I will be staying and also, where I will be working. 

Obviously, if you leave the country, you need an American passport, which I do have, but you also need to provide a picture along with your visa application. To get the visa application expedited with the Chinese Consulate in Chicago, I had to pay a pretty penny but because this is a work trip, the $300 dollars will be reimbursed to me by my client.

Once you do the paperwork for the visa, you also need to pay a visit to your local Travel Clinic to seek medical advice regarding the shots and immunizations you will need to travel overseas.  Not exactly the most amusing visit as it turned out I needed 4 immunizations to be on the safe side, which also included my annual flu shot. Best be on the safe side. You do not want to be ill or sick when traveling that far from home so I didn't mind making the effort to stay safe and well on my visit.

Now that the details are out of the way it is time to start planning for my flights above as my trip now rests on final contract signatures (in process) and of course, getting my visa next week allowing me entry into China.

I'm almost ready to wok... LOL!